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A complete embroidery hoop tutorial: instructions, tips, and aids Embroidery

A complete guide to the machine embroidery hoop

"The quality of an embroidery project depends on how well your material and the stabilizer are clamped."

This complete guide to the hoop handles:

  • The difference between commercial and commercial hoop.
  • Give you a basic guide on how to harness fabric properly without … having to jump through hoops.
  • Show you some useful techniques and tricks that will help you mature more easily.
  • The difference between tires and swimming.
  • Explain why and when you need Hooping Aids.

Commercial embroidery hoops vs.

Commercial vs home machine hoop

Having come from the commercial side of embroidery, I have to admit that one of the things that shocked me the most when I entered the home or hobby embroidery industry was the shape of the hoops …

You see, in the commercial embroidery industry, the shapes of most tires are circular and round. While in the home embroidery industry most tires are square or rectangular, you get sizes like 5 "x 7" tires.

Logically, the commercial (or circular) frames make more sense. The reason for this is that there are 4 corners in the rectangular crafting tapes in which the fabric is held securely. However, the long straight portions of the frame between the corners are not held so firmly or securely. As a result, the fabric becomes loose and causes problems such as design flaws and wrinkles.

Now that the commercial tires are circular, the material is securely and evenly held in all areas of the tire. Instead of having only 4 strong corners, the pressure is distributed evenly over the entire tire, which reduces the likelihood that the fabric will loosen and pull inward. Imagine it like a drum: a drum is circular, so that the "skin" of the drum (as it is called) can be stretched evenly over the drum to make it firmer.

To this day, I personally prefer the use of circular tires over square or rectangular ones, as this helps better to hold the fabric and stabilizer securely in place. It is by no means a must. Some home and commercial intersection machines are equipped with circular tires such Redline 1501 embroidery machine, However, you can often also order round tires for most household appliance brands according to customer requirements.

Again, you do not need circular tires. I'll show you some helpful tips and tricks for securing the long straight sections of rectangular tires in the Tips, tricks and techniques for the tire Section below … But first we'll cover some basics about tire with a quick tutorial.

Machine embroidery hoop tutorial

I often see how embroideries take a screwdriver and tighten their tires as tightly as possible after the tire. Do not do this with materials that are important to you! This leads to "tire burn" which makes the fabric stretched and worn. Follow these strapping instructions instead.

Step 1: Prepare your tire and fabric

The first step in proper clamping is to grip the piece of material to be sewn, fold it, and apply a little pressure. In this way, you can estimate how thick the fabric is in the folded state, and you will receive a visual guide on how to properly adjust the distance between each half of the tire. If you set the frame to the correct size beforehand, you can not play around with it tightening it after the material has already been clamped. This leads to a tire burn on the material.

Folded fabric for clamping
Then take your tire and pull on the corner with the adjustable knob and loosen or tighten it to keep the space between each part of the hoop about the size of the visually measured pleated fabric.

Size hoop

Step 2: Tire your material

Next, place the lower half of your hoop on the table in front of you so that the adjustable corner with the button is furthest away from you. After properly placing the material and stabilizer on the lower half of the tire on the table, take the upper half of the tire and push it in a quick motion forward and down into the lower half of the tire to pop "it in place. If set correctly, there should be some resistance, but you should not struggle with the top of the frame to push it.

Insert hoop

Remember not to cock the frame by adjusting the button after the fabric has already been stretched. I see that all the time with stick beginners; They first rip very loosely and then aggressively turn the knob to tighten the tire. Many even take screwdrivers and tighten the tire to the maximum. This is a tremendous waste of time, causing fabric burns and being detrimental to the embroidery.

Instead of tightening the frame by turning the knob while the frame is still on the table, grab the material that protrudes from the longer sides of the frame and carefully pull it out. Then take the tire and lightly push in the corners of the tire so that it is drum-tight and machine-ready.

Now you can put your hoop on your machine and start sewing!
Tighten the hoop

Embroidery hoop for beginners video tutorial:

If you are more of a visual learner, here is a great short video that explains the process to you.

Tips, tricks and techniques for the tire

Here are some helpful techniques and tricks to help you master hoop projects:

1. Use the correct frame size

Simply put, you will always get the best results if you use an embroidery hoop that comes closest to the embroidery design you are using. For example, with a 3.5 x 3.8 in. Design, use a 4 x 4 in. Frame and not a 5 x 7 in. Large. This is a basic principle, but surprisingly, not a few embroideries follow this principle.

2. Use T-pins for large rectangular tires

If you ever need to fasten your fabric in a large rectangular frame, I recommend you use T-pens to hold the fabric securely in place. Please note This technique should only be used with stabilizers or fabrics that are not particularly important to you, as the T-pins can leave holes and mark them.

Using this technique, iron your fabric as normal (see the tutorial section above for more information). Once this is done, you will use T-pins to secure the stabilizer or fabric in place and stop any movement. The T-pins should be used where the stabilizer or fabric protrudes between the two frames after the tire has risen. They should be flush with the frame. In this way, the T-pins can snap to the frame and stop any movement as the stabilizer or fabric begins to move around the loose areas of the frame.

We recommend that you insert these T-pens around the long straight sections of tinker ribbons as these sections will not be held so firmly or securely. The corners do not require T-pins.

Here is a short video that shows you the technique in action:

3. Use double-sided tape

Using double-sided tape is a great technique when working with transparent, slippery or stretchy fabrics. The reason for this is that the stabilizer that touches the outer part of the frame performs its task as indicated. Its "stability" affects the plastic part of the outer frame. The problem of "warping" within a design often occurs when the material that contacts the plastic of the inner hoop does not "grasp" the material. So keeping one part safe and slipping the other leads to distortions and ripples in the design.

Applying double-sided tape to the outside of the inner frame where the material touches the frame prevents slippage between the stabilizer and the fabric and gives you much better results.

The best part is that the tape is suitable for several tires until it loses its "stickiness". Then you can just remove a new piece and reapply. I also found that it does not damage most fabric types or leave any residue behind. Essentially, it works much the same as the "T-pin" technique, but is less invasive to the fabric.

This technique is a win-win situation in my books.

Here is a short video that shows you the technique in action:

Hoop or hover your embroidery: what's the difference?

In recent years, I have seen a great movement in which people "float" their embroidery. This essentially means that the user hooks in a piece of stabilizer and then "floats" the material / object to be embroidered on the stabilizer.

I'm not a big fan as this is not a "one size fits all" solution. My rule of thumb is that if you can not clamp an object or it's specially digitized as an in-the-hoop project where you need to float pieces of fabric, you should clamp it. For me, it should be a last resort. You will always get better results if you restrain the stabilizer and tissue safely.

If you do not need to clamp an object or material but hover, I strongly recommend taking additional measures to get better results. These may include basting stitches, stick spray adhesives, sticky stabilizers, pens, tape, etc. to secure the design to the stabilizer.

One of the biggest registry issues I see – things that are not paying attention to well-digitized designs – is that the article was "floating" and not securely clamped.

Embroidery hoops, stations and boards make it easy

Hoop station

If you've ever tried to iron with a hoop help, I do not need to explain the benefits to you. Embroidery hoop stations, boards, and systems are great tools that help you harness faster and easier.

Now, personally, I would like anyone who:

  • Problems with the tire.
  • Tire difficult items (such as baby onesies, sleeves, embroidery buddies, socks, etc.).
  • Owns an embroidery shop.
  • Make several similar items at the same time (for example, 10 shirts).
  • Do not enjoy it too mature.

I say that because tire helps really speed up the whole process and reduce the likelihood that you will make a mistake and tire again.

Not to mention that they enjoy the tire!

My personal recommendation for a quality hooping station that does not break the bank is: Echidna Hooping Station, This is the only tire aid on the market that uses magnets to help you tire faster and easier than ever before.

Simply place your tire on the raised non-slip board and secure it with strong magnets and tires. As simple as that!

These strapping aids will fit nearly all tire sizes on the market and are not specific to different machine brands. It is incredibly easy to use and, unlike other Hooping stations, does not require any additional equipment, has extensive manuals and does not cost a fortune.

If you want to know more about these amazing hooping stations, click here, Or just have a look at the following video:

What's next?

Hopefully, this article has taught you one or two things about hooping.

If you are new to machine embroidery, we recommend that you frame a few elements. Follow the steps in the tutorial section above. Tire is not the most entertaining part of the embroidery, but one of the most important, and as the old saying goes, "Practice makes perfect".

If you are more experienced and have come across this article hoping to find an easier way, I strongly recommend that you take a look at it Echidna Hooping Station, This greatly speeds up the overall strapping process, simplifies it and makes it less frustrating.

If you liked the videos provided here, please do not forget to subscribe to the YouTube channel! Thank you for your support and have fun in the tire!

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